MATERIALS
- ·Magicyarnballyarn box, 4 pply, around 3000 -
4000m, seperated in small ball yarns for each square
or you can use yarn of your choice. Find yarn here.
- Hook size 3mm and 3.5mm
PATTERN INFO
This blanket features 20 squares, each measuring a generous 30 cm, arranged in 5 squares per row and 4 rows.
For more help on the pattern don't hesitate to contact us at: yarnhookgo@gmail.com. There is also a video tutorial on our channel.
SQUARE #1
WAFFLE STITCH
ABBREVIATIONS
RS: right side
WS: wrong side
DC: double crochet
CH: chain
FPDC: front post double crochet
BPDC: back post double crochet
CH-SP: chain space
ST/S: stitch / es
with 3.5mm:
This square will be worked back and forth, that is, when you
close the round with a slst, then you will turn from the wrong
side or the right side.
RS: In a magic circle : (2 dc - 1 ch) x 4 times and join with a sl st in
the 1st dc
WS: sl st until ch1-sp, 1 ch, *(dc - 2 ch - dc) in ch1-sp, fpdc in the
next 2 sts* x 4 times, join with a sl st in the 1st dc.
RS: sl st until ch2-sp, turn the knit, 1 ch *(dc - 1 ch - dc) in ch2-sp,
fpdc in the next dc, dc in the next 2 bpdc sts, fpdc in the next dc st*
repeat and join with a sl st in the 1st dc
WS: sl st until ch1-sp, turn the knit, 1 ch, *(dc - 2 ch - dc) in ch2-sp,
fpdc in the next dc st, dc in the next bpdc st, fpdc in the next 2 dc
sts, dc in the next bpdc st, fpdc in the next dc st* repeat and join
with a sl st in the 1st dc.
RS: sl st until ch1-sp, turn the knit, 1 ch, *(dc - 2 ch - dc) in ch2-sp,
dc in the next 2 sts, fpdc in the next st, dc in the next 2 sts, fpdc in
the next st, dc in the next 2 sts* repeat and join with a sl st in the
1st dc.
NOTE: Follow the idea of the pattern until it measures 28 cm.
The idea of the pattern is this: on the RS and WS you will do
dc in bpdc sts, and fpdc in dc sts.
SQUARE #2
ABBREVIATIONS
CH: chain
ST/S: stitch / es
CH-SP: chain - space
DC: double crochet
FPTR: front post treble crochet
with 3.5mm:
5 ch, and sl st in the 1st ch to form a ring.
R1: 1 ch, (3 dc - 2 ch) x 4 times in the magic ring, and join with a sl st in the
1st dc.
R2: sl st till you reach ch2-sp, 1 ch, *(dc - fptr (stepping into the space
below - dc - 2 ch - dc - fptr (stepping in the space below) - dc) in the ch2-
sp, skip the next 3 sts)* repeat and join with a sl sl in the 1st dc.
R3: sl st till you reach ch2-sp, 1 ch, *(dc - fptr (stepping into the space
below - dc - 2 ch - dc - fptr (stepping in the space below) - dc) in the ch2-
sp, sk the next 3 sts, (dc - fptc (stepping in the row below in the 2nd dc -
dc) after the 3 skipped sts and before the next 3 sts)* repeat and join with a
sl st in the 1st dc.
R4: sl st till you reach ch2-sp, 1 ch, *(dc - fptr (stepping into the space
below - dc - 2 ch - dc - fptr (stepping in the space below) - dc), in the ch2-
sp, skip the next 3 stitches, (dc - fptc (stepping in the row below in the 2nd
dc - dc) (after the 3 stitches and before the next 3 stitches), skip the next 3
stitches)* repeat and join with a sl st in the 1st dc.
Continue the idea of the pattern of R3 until it measures 28 cm.
SQUARE # 3
ABBREVIATIONS
SC: single crochet
SC BL: single crochet back loop
CH: chain
FPDC: front post double crochet
With 3.5mm:
In a magic circle:
R1: 1 ch, (sc - 2 ch) x 4 times, and join with a sl st in the 1st sc.
R2: 1 ch, sc bl in the 1st / next st, *[(sc - 2 ch - sc) in the ch2-sp], sc bl in
the next st*, x 3 times ending with (sc - 2 ch - sc), sc bl in the next st and
join with a sl st in the 1st sc.
R3: 1 ch, fpdc in the 1st st 2 rows below, sc bl in the next st, *(sc - 2 ch -
sc) in ch2-sp, sc bl in the next st, fpdc stepping 2 rows below in the next,
sc bl in next st* repeat and join with a sl st in the 1st fpdc.
R4: 1ch, sc bl in the next 3 sts, *(sc - 2 ch - sc) in ch2-sp, sc bl in the next
st, fpdc 2 rows below, in the next st, sc bl in the next 3 sts* repeat and join
with a sl st in the 1st sc.
R5: 1 ch, sc bl in the next 2 sts, fpdc in next st, sc bl in the next st, *(sc - 2
ch - sc) in ch2-sp, sc bl in the next st, fpdc 2 rows below, in the next st, sc
bl in the next 3 sts, fpdc 2 rows below, in the next st, sc bl in the next*
repeat and join with a sl st in the 1st sc.
Continue the idea of the pattern of R4 until it measures 28 cm. The idea of
the pattern is as follows: 3 sc bl in the next 3 sts, fpdc 2 rows below in the
next stitch.
SQUARE #4
ABBREVIATIONS
CH: chain
DC: double crochet
FPHTR: front post half treble crochet
CH-SP: chain - space
With 3.5mm:
Make 5 chains and join with a sl st in the 1st ch, to form a ring.
R1: 1 ch, (3 dc - 2 ch) x 4 times and join with a sl st in the 1st dc.
R2: ch 1, dc in the 1st st, fphtr stepping in the row below, in the next st, dc
in the next st, *(2 dc - 2 ch - 2 dc) in the ch2-sp, dc in the next st, fphtr
stepping in the row below, in the next st, dc in the next st* repeat and join
with a sl st in the 1st st.
R3: 1 ch, fphtrc stepping in the row below, in the same st, fphtr stepping in
the row below, in the next 2 sts, dc in the next 2 sts, *(2 dc - 2 ch - 2 dc) in
the ch2-sp, dc in the next 2 sts, fphtr stepping in the row below, in the next
3 sts, dc in the next 2 sts* repeat and join with a sl st in the 1st fphtr.
R4: 1 ch, fphtr stepping in the row below, in the same st, fphtr stepping in
the row below, in the next 3 sts, dc in the next 3 sts, *(2 dc - 2 ch - 2 dc) in
the ch2-sp, dc in the next 3 sts, fphtr stepping in the row below, in the next
5 sts, dc in the next 3 sts* x 3 times, ending with (2 dc - 2 ch - 2 dc) in the
ch2-sp, dc in the next 3 sts, fphtr stepping in the row below, in the next st,
and join with a sl st in the 1st fphtr.
Continue the idea of the pattern until it measures 28 cm. The idea of the
pattern is as follows.: In each row, you add from the 2 sides, (right and
left), 1 fphtrc, and in the remaining sts you do dc.
SQUARE #5
ABBREVIATIONS
CH: chain
DC: double crochet
FPDTRC: front post double treble crochet
CH-SP: chain - space
With 3.5mm:
In a magic circle:
R1: 1 ch, (dc - 1 ch) x 4 times and join with a slip st in the 1st dc.
R2: ch 1, dc in same st, *(dc - 2 ch - dc) in the corner, dc in next 3 sts* x 3
times, ending with (dc - 2 ch - dc) in the corner, and join with a sl st in the
1st dc.
R3: 1 ch, dc in the same st, dc in the next st, *(dc - 2 ch - dc) in the corner,
dc in the next 3 sts* x 3 times, ending with (dc - 2 ch - dc) in the last corner
, dc in next st and join with a sl st in the 1st dc.
R4: ch 1, dc in the same st, dc in the next 2 sts, *(dc - 2 ch - dc) in the
corner, dc in the next 5 sts*, x 3 times, ending with (dc - 2 ch - dc) in the
last corner, dc in next 2 sts and join with a sl st in the 1st dc.
R5: 1 ch, fpdtr in the same st, fpdtr in the next st, dc in the next 2 sts, *(dc -
2 ch - dc) in the corner, dc in the next 2 sts, fpdtr in the next 3 sts (
stepping 2 rows below, in R1), dc in the next 2 sts* x 3 times, ending with
(dc - 2 ch - dc) in the corner, dc in the next 2 sts, fpdtr in the next st and
join with a sl st in the 1st fpdtr.
R6: 1 ch, dc in the same st, dc in the next 4 sts, *(dc - 2 ch - dc) in the
corner, dc in the next 9 sts* x 3 times, ending with (dc - 2 ch - dc) in the
last corner, dc in the next 4 sts and join with a sl st in the 1st dc.
R7: Repeat R6, and do, dc in each st, till end of the round and in the
corners do (dc - 2 ch - dc). Join with a sl st in the end, in the 1st dc.
R8: ch 1, dc in the same st, dc in the next st, fpdtr in the next 3 sts, 2 rows
below, dc in the next 2 sts, *(dc - 2 ch - dc) in the corner, dc in the next 2
sts, fpdtr in the next 3 sts, 2 rows below, dc in the next 3 sts, fpdtr in the
next 3 sts, 2 rows below, dc in the next 2 sts* x 3 times, ending with (dc - 2
ch - dc) in the last corner, dc in the next 2 sts, fpdtr in the next 3 sts, 2 rows
below, dc in the next st and join with a sl st in the 1st dc.
The idea of the pattern is as follows: R5 or R8 and 2 rows with dc in each
st. Repeat the idea until you have (3 fpdtr) x 6 on each side.
NOTES:
- When doing R5 or R8, it will always start and end with a dc in the first
and last st, after and before the corner.
- Do fpdtr when 2 rows below you have dc and dc when 2 rows below you
have fpdtr.
- Always do 2 rows with dc in each st every 3rd row
JOINING
You can join the motifs in any irregular way you like. I chose the zig zag
join which you will see below in the pictures.
Join the squares with a stitch marker, in the corner
Make a knot, pass the hook in the corner of the 1st square, from the outside to the
inside.
Yarn over and pass it through the loop.
Pass the hook, in the corner of the 2nd square
Yarn over and pass it through the loop.
Pass the hook, in the 1st square, from outside to inside, in the back loop,
yarn over and pass it through the loop.
Pass the hook, in the 2nd square, from outside to inside, in the back loop,
yarn over and pass it through the loop. Continue the steps till the next corner, cut yarn and weave the ends.
Join the squares, one by one, first horizontally, and make 4 rows with 5
squares. After, with the same way, join the rows between them.
BORDER
After you have joined the squares, and you have weaved the ends, you will
do the border all around, which is called "Double Border". In this border,
you will first work the rows in the front loop, then in the back loop and in the
end, you will join the edges with sl st.
R1: join the yarn in the corner and: ch1, *(sc - ch 1 - sc) in the corner, sc bl
in each st* repeat * till the end of the round and join with a sl st.
R2: ch 1, fpdc in the 1st st, *(dc - ch 1 - dc) in the corner, fpdc in each st*
repeat the * till the end of the round and join with a sl st.
R3: ch 1, dc in the 1st st, dc in each st, *(dc - ch1 - dc) in the corner, dc in
each st* repeat the * till the end of the round and join with sl st.
Cut yarn, weave the ends, turn you knit from the wrong side and repeat the
rows 1, 2 and 3, starting from the unworked loops of the R1. Once you’re
done, join the edges of the border with sl st all around. Cut yarn and weave
the ends and you are finished!
